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Terres Dorées is a limestone-laden area known as the "Region of the Golden Stones." Sustainably focused and non-interventionist in both the vineyard and winery, Brun is a firm advocate of minimal SO2, natural yeast, old vines and low yields. L'Ancien, from vines 50-80 years old, is savoury and lithe. Wild herbs, rasped stone, juicy wild raspberry and thorns are lifted with bright and lifted cherry and textured with mineral salts. Graceful, with a bamboo firm frame of tannins. Salted sage lingers on the lengthy finish. Drinking well now (mine went with truffle salted frites and lardon decked endive) or will cellar for 5+ years easy.